ITALICA · Discover

Italy's First Real Sign of Fall Isn't the Weather

The thermometer in Milan still read like July. Four women walked past me in real coats.

1 · The observation

None of them looked hot

Brera, the third week of August. Buttoned, some belted, worn as though October had already arrived. Nobody looked like they had made a mistake.

2 · The calendar

She will not check a forecast

Ask an Italian woman when fall starts. It starts the week the coats come back out of the closet, whatever the thermometer says.

3 · Which coat

Not the heavy one

That stays folded another month at least. The first one out is lighter, cut close to the body, meant to be worn open as often as closed.

4 · What it is for

Ten minutes on either side

An over-cooled restaurant, a chilled office, a warm evening waiting outside it. The coat solves that gap, weeks before real cold exists.

ITALICA

Before the season admits it

By the time it is genuinely cold enough to need one, everyone else will just be catching up.

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